If you’ve been a moderately devoted peruser of #TBT here on Fratello watch plant then you probably review a portion of the articles I’ve written on Gallets outfitted with Excelsior Park developments. We’ve checked on a few Multichrons including the 12 , the 12HR , and a wonderful Decimal and all were furnished with super smooth “EP” developments. What I trust I’ve clarified before is that Excelsior Park fabricated watch plant utilizing their own developments and cases, for companies like Gallet, Zenith and Gerard Perregaux, yet they likewise sold pieces marked with their own name. These genuinely “in-house” pieces don’t appear to come available to be purchased as oftentimes, yet they’re alluring in their own specific manner and frequently include dials almost indistinguishable from those found on watch production line made under agreement by the firm. The present watch plant is unique however – very different – on the grounds that it contains one of the more alluring and uncommon dial styles I’ve come across. We should investigate the beautiful Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph.
First off, we should discuss the proper wear reference found inside the name of the Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph. For quite a long time, watch processing plant companies like Tudor, , Rolex, and others have utilized the plan of circling a white or silver dial with a dark ring. A similar silver or white regularly, yet not generally, encompasses the dark ring to the edge of the dial. The dark ring by and large incorporates the hour files and the focal lighter part is left generally uncovered. Still with me? What it makes is a genuinely differentiating look that helps one to remember the conventional dim and light (or high contrast) tuxedo.
The just current models that come to mind with this look are the arrangement however in the relatively recent past, Rolex delivered a Datejust 116234 in the mid to late 2000’s with such a dial. While it’s not incredibly uncommon, it is a kitschy piece from the generally sullen brand and it has grown to some degree an after (hint: preferable to purchase sooner over later).
As you can see on the Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph, a gleaming dim was picked as the balance to dark and I believe it’s dazzling. Inside the focal point of the dial, the dim surface shows vertical brushing and is just separated the amazing “Excelsior Park” content. This is compared against both the dark ring and the dim sub registers that contain concentric edges. Look nearer and you’ll really see that the dark ring highlights a dainty white line on its internal surface to help make definitive division between the tones. The white matches the sub register numerals just as the hour font.
And gracious that text style! The brand utilized some normal qualities on their watch plant and the “7” and the “4” are commonplace Excelsior Park. As you can see the Gallet Decimal highlights numbers in the equivalent style.
Before purchasing the Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph (Andreas of discovered it at a watch manufacturing plant reasonable and sent me pictures preceding getting it), I truly just had one inquiry concerning the watch industrial facility and that was identified with the hands. I did a great deal of web looking, and talked with , inside a hurried period – the watch industrial facility was waiting after all – to check for different instances of this watch plant and I happened upon not very many. A few models contained lume and some didn’t. And afterward, a few pieces with this dial were in a waterproof case (read: round pushers) and some were house in cases with rectangular pushers. Adding to the complexity, I didn’t have the watch production line close by, so it was difficult for me to tell if the numerals were lumed. On the off chance that they had been, the watch production line would have required lumed hands. Eventually, fortunately neither the dial nor the hands contained lume. With respect to style of hands, I found a comparable variant that had sold in Spain – and Fred felt the hands were like other 1940’s EP’s he’d seen – so I chose to pull the trigger. A decent sign is that the hand lengths coordinate the dial well and each stretches out to a “track”. The focal hands were a wreck shading savvy when the watch plant showed up, yet our watchmaker Paul cooled off from gathering Hermes Birkin sacks and took them back to spec.
As you can see, the Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph shows a treated steel case that is fundamentally the same as the Gallet Multichron 12. Those mark three-sided chamfers on the hauls are a genuine “tell” that this was made by EP. Size shrewd, the case is indistinguishable from the Gallet at 38mm in width and almost 44mm carry to drag. Strangely, however, the EP foregoes show with its 21mm carries though the Gallets stay with the undeniably more adaptable 20mm.
The Tuxedo piece likewise has penetrated through lugholes, which maybe focuses to it being from a previous time than a portion of the Gallets I own from the 1950’s.
As this is a waterproof form, the case back is of the screw down assortment and the pushers are round as well.
The Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph utilizes the EP Caliber 4, alluded to as the EP4, and it’s fundamentally a two-register form of the eponymous EP40 that we’ve talked about finally. Regardless of whether it’s the EP4 or EP40, the development is plush and, indeed, that focal chrono hand simply floats back to 12:00 while discouraging the lower pusher. One thing I have seen with EP developments is that setting the time feels exceptionally mechanical; maybe one can feel the pinion wheels turning while pivoting the crown. It’s not positive or negative, but rather since running into issues with winding pinions and origins on these developments, it drives me to keeping these pieces as inconsistent wears.
Speaking of wearing, the Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph is a shocker on the wrist. Indeed, I own many vintage chronographs with a wide range of dial tones, yet this piece is so extraordinary. Obviously, I’m happy Andreas considered me when he saw it.
It’s difficult to put an incentive on a watch production line like this in light of the fact that there I’ve seen scarcely any. I’d surmise that $3,000 or more would almost certainly be a decent spot to begin. As usual, with pieces this way, proceed cautiously if hands are missing or if the development is a fruitcake. As should be obvious, I am tragically not, at this point the adrenaline junkie I used to be with regards to facing challenges on mechanicals.
With eye-getting pieces, for example, the Excelsior Park Tuxedo Dial Chronograph thus numerous others made for different companies, EP was a remarkable watchmaking company. For authorities, they offer the uncommon chance to purchase a watch manufacturing plant that was basically totally made under one rooftop – something individuals, appropriately or wrongly, go crazy about in the present marketplace.