Tudor has a talent for taking the spotlight at Baselworld. Throughout the most recent couple of years, the consistent pattern of media reporting appears to consistently begin with Tudor — maybe through a “leaked” mystery or a pre-Basel party just before the show — and afterward it comes back to Tudor when websites, for example, yours really, distribute wrap-ups, round-ups and best-ofs for the occasion. 2018 was the same — indeed, it might have been Tudor’s most grounded year yet.
The first influx of information to hit was that Tudor had dispatched a GMT Black Bay ( read our survey here ). It was an intelligent following stage for the brand and the Black Bay line. And afterward came the subsequent wave. The bits of gossip sounded wrong from the start — practically like they were unrealistic. Could Tudor truly have delivered a 39-millimeter Black Bay with a bezel? Without a doubt, they had just done more modest, non-bezel assortments, yet to make a more modest, bezeled Black Bay appeared to be far-fetched. That is to say, by then wouldn’t it be almost at vintage Submariner extents? Furthermore, in the event that they did make it, what development could they use? Clearly not an in-house development, I thought. All things considered, the first Black Bay and Pelagos really got a touch thicker when they changed from ETA to in-house, recommending that Tudor’s developments are genuinely sizable. I presumed that the bits of gossip were wrong.
And at that point, a lot to my wonderful astonishment, I was some unacceptable one. The new watch, named the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, was a lot of genuine, and it was truly only 39 millimeters in measurement with another, more modest, in-house type. It likewise accompanied a more buyer agreeable sticker price, costing about $100 not as much as its more established, bigger siblings.
While the width just shrunk 2 millimeters, the remainder of the characterizing measurements descended relatively also. The drags went from 22 to 20 millimeters, and the carry to-haul went from 50 to 47.75 millimeters, and, maybe above all, the thickness dropped from 14.8 to 11.9 millimeters. The final product is a watch that wears completely diversely and looks more like its vintage progenitors, consequently freeing the Black Bay line up to a much more extensive gathering of lovers and clients. Obviously, you’re perusing this in 2019, and this is all old news as of now.
Today, marginally under a year since it was divulged, however a couple of months after it previously hit racks, we’re giving the watch a legitimate audit. Is this the Black Bay we had always wanted? Is it the everyman’s and woman’s Submariner? A Sub for another age and another age? Would this be able to assist us with getting our aggregate disillusionment at having not repurchased a vintage Tudor Sub when they were all the more sensibly valued? Let’s find out.
Review: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Case Stainless Steel Movement Tudor MT5402 Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Steel Bracelet Water Resistance 200m Dimensions 39 x 47.75mm Thickness 11.9mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw-down Warranty Yes Price $3575
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight (I’ll consider it the BB58 going ahead for brevity’s purpose) simply looks right here and there the wrist. It’s more modest, yet it’s not small, and it holds the entirety of the up-to-date, energetic appeal that Black Bays (and Submariners besides) are known for having. Estimating 39 x 47.75 x 11.9 millimeters, the case hits a sweet spot for a compact game/jump watch. We’ve been seeing increasingly more 39-millimeter watches, and it’s a size that appears to function admirably for watches with and without bezels. That’s considerably more evident when there is a bigger choice for those of us who favor a beefier watch with more presence, similar to the case here.
As I composed above, it’s less the measurement that is important here, and it’s more about the general extents of the watch. It’s not as long haul to-carry, so the case fixates better on a more modest wrist. The width here is acquired, however the dial-to-bezel extents have been changed (apparently) by expanding the overall size of the dial opening. This permits the watch to get more modest without looking much smaller.
But the genuine story here, and it’s what has the greatest effect, is the thickness. Coming in at a hair under 12 millimeters, the case thickness is ideal for a jumper. It’s not going to win any honors for being the most slender jump watch, however it’s making an effort not to. It’s still an instrument watch with a rough appeal, yet it’s not, at this point awkward. Additionally, it looks flimsy in light of the fact that the mid-case here isn’t a square of cleaned steel. The general thickness is separated all the more equally among the case-back, mid-case, bezel, and crystal.
Look at those cleaned slants Big, however not very huge, crown The hued tube is gone
This carries me to a significant point: it’s not excessively the first Black Bay (BB41 from now into the foreseeable future) is too large; 41 millimeters across is well inside current assumptions. Nor is the issue that it is excessively tall; there are a lot of different watches pushing 15 millimeters in thickness. The issue is that it wears tall. Different watches, including the BB58, shrewdly shroud their stature through plan, and hence read more modest on the wrist (this is something we talk about a ton on W&W). The BB41 doesn’t do this, and therefore, it would seem that a cleaned tower on the wrist. From over, the size is attractive, tough, and peruses well on both huge and little wrists. From the side, in any case, it looks unrefined.
Tudor endeavored to address this with the BB41 GMT by adding another incline along the lower part of the case, which helped a piece. Be that as it may, the most genuine fix to this issue is a more slender case, and the BB58 does it right.
A more neglected, yet at the same time critical, change to the BB58 is that the hauls are currently 20 millimeters down from 22. This has a colossal in general effect in look and feel of the watch. 22-millimeter ties are wide, and 22-millimeter drags are wide. They added to the in general solid, tyrannical presence that the BB41 has on the wrist. With 20-millimeter carries, the BB58 has a lighter presence around the wrist. This doesn’t compare to a less manly look, mind you, however one that is surely more stifled. For my wrist, it’s very much wanted as I in a real sense think that its more comfortable. I’ll get to the arm band in detail later, yet I’ll note since it tightens from 20 millimeters down to 16, which assumes a major part in the BB58 wearing just as it does.
As for the plan, on the off chance that you’ve seen a Black Bay previously, you shouldn’t have any amazements. It holds similar bends, shape, completing, and so forth The brushing on the highest point of the drags is as yet remarkable, just like the sharp incline that cuts around the edge of the case. The sides are as yet cleaned, which is with regards to the Sub-plan language. In any case, given the measure of deviation the Black Bay has from vintage models, I’d love to see a brushed variant eventually.
The bezel actually looks exceptionally pleasant, however it’s still somewhat tricky since there is no shade like on the Pelagos. All things considered, the 60-click system feels right on target when turning, it actually has that cool small bolting component at 0/60 where it requires a smidgen more exertion to turn at that spot.
The crown is still “big” comparative with the case, yet it doesn’t feel as misrepresented. It’s endorsed with an enormous Tudor Rose logo, same as on the BB41, and it is an outwardly engaging gesture to vintage Tudor. One thing it’s lacking, be that as it may, is the hued crown tube. This was kind of a mark of the Black Bay, however one that was constantly met with a tepid reaction. It didn’t ruin anything, yet it didn’t truly add anything to the watch all things considered. I never abhorred it, however I additionally don’t miss it on the BB58.
Even more than the case, the dial of the BB58 is unadulterated Black Bay. Tudor has an equation, and they don’t stray from it here. Truth be told, it’s essentially a somewhat downsized form of the Black Bay Black dial I several years prior (read that audit here ). The dial surface is matte dark and looks a touch blurred to my eyes. Tudor says the dial is domed, so I expect it’s domed, yet the impact is inconspicuous. Maybe there is a dash of bend to be seen at the edge of the dial and I’m simply missing it.
On the surface, you have the obvious Submariner-style hour markers composed of lume-filled, rose gold appliqués. The lume is additionally that equivalent warm custard shading that is sufficiently distant white to not look excessively new, however without looking like fake patina. Around the edge of the dial is a shut list of hash marks for the minutes/seconds delivered in a fake rose gold print. In the middle, you have the logo under 12 and the profundity rating in addition to chronometer text over 6. The hands are the staple “snowflake” set completed in cleaned rose gold. Honestly, the lone distinction I can see here from the BB41 is that the dial printing may draw a touch nearer to the edge, as shown by the more clouded “Swiss Made” text under 6.
The glow from the gold is striking The work of art, strong markers are in every case simple to peruse Beautiful reflections
Though I once disagreed with the snowflake hour hand being blended in with round markers, following a couple of long periods of seeing Black Bays around, I just don’t care any longer. I actually think the handset looks better with square markers (à la the Pelagos), however I’ve become accustomed to it with no guarantees. It’s not really hostile and, given the achievement of the line, it’s becoming its own thing. You win, Tudor. On the BB58, the hands look incredible and manage their work of encouraging you tell the time quickly.
While the dial remains generally the equivalent, the bezel has a slight restorative change that makes this first form of the BB58 interesting in the assortment. The addition is dark, anodized aluminum and highlights a red triangle at 0/60 with a lume pearl, much the same as it does on the BB41 Black. However, rather than crude aluminum for the numerals and markings, Tudor went with rose gold to coordinate the dial embeds. The outcome is a fair sum more gold being added to the image, yet not all that much. It essentially falls some place in the middle of the Black Bay Black and Tudor’s two-tone models. Consider this one two-tone light.
While I’ve seen some contradiction about this move, and even in the W&W office not every person is on the same wavelength, but rather I think it’s incredible. I’ve come to truly like gold/overlaid complements on game watches. I’m not going to go full gold any time soon, yet I do appreciate a dash of that warm tone coming off a watch. It causes a watch to feel less unmistakably current while not explicitly going for a vintage curve. On the BB58, it makes the gold accents of the dial leap out a touch more, and the general bundle more style than sport centered. As the debut BB58, this likewise causes it to feel more special.
The 79090 and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight
The story of the BB58 doesn’t stop with the more modest case, which is actually a door to something more huge. The BB58 is fueled by a totally different type, the MT5402. Highlighting similar specialized specs as its greater, more established sibling (the MT5602 included during the BB41s), the MT5402 is a COSC-ensured chronometer with a 70-hour power save, silicon hairspring, free-sprung balance, 27 gems, a recurrence of 28,800 bph, and a bidirectional winding rotor. The thing that matters is basically the size.
But this isn’t the instance of simply a more modest base plate; it’s actually an entirely different development, presently estimating 26 x 4.99 millimeters against the 31.8 x 6.5 millimeters of the more established type. That’s a colossal contrast and it’s what permits Tudor to pull off the more modest, more slender case. For reference, the ETA 2824-2 is 25.6 x 4.6 millimeters, so the new development is significantly more in accordance with that industry staple.
In my experience with the BB58, it was very exact and showed no force save issues. Truth be told, I was pleased to think that its actually ticking and exactly on schedule a few days of not wearing it. On a timegrapher, the outcomes were marvelous. Given that my utilization of that apparatus is novice, best case scenario, I won’t distribute the outcomes, yet let’s simply say they were well inside spec.
I think you can’t truly belittle what a major move the BB58 is for Tudor. It’s not simply an incredible watch that fulfills a profound longing for a more vintage-feeling, Submariner-enlivened watch by the house with genuine rights to the name (Hans Wildorf Group), it’s a totally different stage for the brand. This isn’t going to be a one-and-done circumstance. In addition to the fact that they invested in the tooling for the entirety of the case, dial, and arm band components for the watch, however they did as such for the development also. Furthermore, the previous doesn’t even compare to the meaning of the last mentioned. This development is probably going to clear out what’s left of ETA from the brand, which makes them autonomous from Swatch gathering, yet now hardens Tudor as the $3,000 – $5,000 stalwart they need to be. To paraphrase Walter White, they are in the domain business.
Bracelet and Wearability
The bolt wristband that Tudor acquainted with the Black Bay line in 2016 truly completed the throwback picture of the watch, so I was happy to see that they dispatched the BB58 with a 20-millimeter rendition. While there are calfskin and texture alternatives for the watch, the arm band is the correct decision. Concerning the subtleties, it’s precisely what you anticipate. The wristband is 20 millimeters at the hauls, and it tightens in strides to 16 millimeters. Each connection highlights bolt plated sides, with the removable connections dropping one bolt for a screw-bar. It’s a savvy detail since it the two looks great and takes into account simple measuring at home. The fasten is a strong, very much completed, overlap over catch with an optional lock that makes a Tudor Shield shape.
And now for the main part — how it wears. Does the distinction in size have that large of an effect on the wrist? The appropriate response is a brazen yes. The new case improves things significantly. The BB58 is smooth and compact, yet toolish and manly. None of the roughness of the BB41 has been lost, and the vintage beguile has just been enhanced. Furthermore, the watch is only straight-up comfortable. There’s no catching on my sleeve, no exhaustion before the day’s over, no abnormal squeezing while at the same time sitting at my work area and composing. It’s precisely as I need it to be.
Granted, I favor more modest, more slender watches by and large. As my wrist wavers around 7 inches and isn’t wide, I find more limited carry to-drag lengths and breadths from 36 – 40 millimeters ideal. All things considered, glancing back at photographs of the BB41 on my wrist, I can’t say that that watch looked terrible. Greater, maybe a touch bolder, yet not larger than usual. The BB58 is more about its unpretentious extents. It’s not stretching my boundaries. It sits fixated on my wrist, which takes into consideration a greater amount of the wristband to be obvious from above. Eventually, it’s truly simply a question of inclination, and Tudor presently has great alternatives for various tastes.
Black Bay Fifty-Eight: 39.5mm Black Bay Black: 41mm And one more for best of luck
Of course, the other factor is vintage-ness. The Black Bay is important for Tudors legacy line so it’s intended to address vintage Tudor Submariners, and Tudor has fabricated its prosperity to a great extent off of the rising fame of vintage watches by and large. The BB41 had the looks, yet not the scale. The BB58 closely resembles a vintage Submariner. As vintage costs keep on going up, the BB58 gives an extraordinary option — and not simply regarding style. It’s apparently the more intelligent buy given the cutting edge construct and specs.
It’s not regularly that a brand takes something incredible and makes it far better, yet that’s precisely how Tudor managed the BB58. The Black Bay organization was at that point demonstrated and uncontrollably fruitful. While more up to date varieties of the BB41 appeared with maybe less exhibition than early forms (likely an indication of slight weariness or such a large number of alternatives), the Black Bay was by the by on target to become a notorious watch in its own right. With the BB58, Tudor dropped the mic. They took the entirety of the criticizable components of the BB41, fixed them, and added a totally different in-house type in with the general mish-mash. With the two sizes being accessible (and actually there’s one bigger variation as the 43-millimeter bronze case, also the bezel-less models) they have everybody covered now.
And that implies everybody needs to get one! I’m joking, obviously, yet Tudor is absolutely making it harder to oppose, particularly since Tudor likewise dropped the cost on the BB58 by $100 dollars (compared to the BB41) to $3,575. What’s more, that’s not in any event, mulling over the cost for used models, which will be considerably really enticing. Maybe the value distinction represents the expense of saved steel, yet it’s more probable an essential decision to be considerably more competitive. Tudor truly is attempting to claim the $3,000 – $5,000 space, and the way that their most mainstream watch is nearer to $3,000 than $5,000 while donning an in-house type is keen. We’ve previously seen the business respond with any semblance of Omega, IWC, Panerai, and Baume and Mercier offering in-house models under $5,000.
What’s left to say? It’s clear Tudor did great with the BB58, and it’s likely they will extend incredibly on the assortment. This implies more choices, clearly, yet maybe likewise better used costs on this first form, which is kind of a shared benefit in the event that you have some persistence. For my preferences, this model, with its held utilization of gold, may consistently be my favorite. Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight