Ok, the Nomos Ludwig. You know, the one with the Roman numerals. A backbone of Nomos’ assortment, it doesn’t get almost a similar acclaim or exhibition as their other, flashier (by Nomos guidelines) watches, yet endures and keeps on creating alongside their different lines. Most as of late, Nomos reported a threesome of Ludwig restricted versions to celebrate 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte . A proper decision for such an event, the Ludwig is Nomos’ most traditionally styled watch. What’s more, for the restricted versions, they played off of this reality and enhanced it with a couple of decision, profoundly appealing details.
Lesser talked about, simultaneously as dispatching these LEs, Nomos added another model to the center Ludwig assortment, the Ludwig Neomatik 39. While Nomos is controlled with their plans, they are very productive with their variants, regularly growing a line into a few models, each with a marginally extraordinary measurement, development, or shading. In this occasion, the 39mm (actually less) Neomatik (demonstrating their super slight DUW 3001 type), adds a slender, medium/enormous choice over the current 38mm models and underneath the biggest 41mm models.
In this article, I will investigate two Nomos Ludwig models, both Neomatik 39s, one the center model, the other from the restricted version 175 Years Watchmaking threesome. While based on a similar stage and conceived from a similar Ludwig DNA, the outcomes are charmingly extraordinary. However, why take a gander at both? Indeed, when you read this, regardless of whether it be soon after distribution or a couple of years past, the restricted release is probably going to be gone, being compelled to only 175 watches. The center model, notwithstanding, will ideally remain, making this survey still at any rate incompletely relevant.
Review: The Nomos Ludwig Neomatik 39 – A Tale of Two Ludwigs
Case Stainless Steel Movement NOMOS DUW 3001 Dial Silver/Enamel-white Lume No Lens Sapphire Strap Shell Cordovan Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 38.6 x 48.4mm Thickness 7.3mm Lug Width 19mm Crown Push-pull Warranty Yes Price $3700
Other than a couple of words on the back, the instances of the two Ludwig 39s are indistinguishable. Estimating 38.6 x 48.4 x 7.3mm, they are on the enormous side for Nomos, however not for watches as a rule, and are especially slight for automatics (for reference, it’s a similar thickness as the hand-wound Ludwig). From over, the Ludwig is all dial, with just a saving measure of metallic glimmer coming from the bezel and straight drags. It would be reasonable if you somehow happened to confuse the Ludwig case with the Tangente case from overhead, or maybe anticipate that it should be the equivalent, however it’s truth be told very unique once saw from the side.
The brutal piece sides and crimped drags are supplanted with an exquisite bowl shape and arced carries. The outcome is that it’s far milder on the eyes, offsetting the more traditional components coming from the dial. Normally, in any event as far as I can tell, German watches with Roman numerals will in general be in the “Marine Chronometer” style, and fit with huge, serious cases. The Ludwig has consistently been invigorating in this regard.
Flipping the watch over you’ll find negligibly brightened pressure-fit case backs with huge showcase windows. The DUW 3001 developments are on full presentation, which is fantastic as this is a development worth getting a charge out of. As verified previously, the restricted version incorporates some additional content perusing “Limited Edition Ludwig – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte” just as numbering. The center model simply says “5 ATM” and “Ludwig 3”.
While the cases are the equivalent, the dials vary strangely. Two watches from one family at two distinct focuses on a timetable. If one somehow managed to envision what the main adaptation of the Ludwig may have looked like – not the principal Nomos made, but rather one far more seasoned and likely a pocket watch – the 175 LE is near what they would come up with. Interestingly, the center model is culled from a lot further along, some place during the 20th century. It’s harsher and colder, and unmistakably more modern.
The dial of the 175 LE addresses the first hand-wound Ludwig plan, with a record of huge, slim Roman numerals rotating with similarly weighted sticks, limited by a railroad track for the minutes. Exemplary completely, however the negligible style of the Roman numerals adds a contemporary vibe. The sub-dial at six highlights dark lines at timespans, obscuring at the cardinal focuses. The two highlights that give the 175 LE it’s one of a kind vibe are the finish white veneer surface and the warmth tempered leaf hands.
The polish white enamel was really utilized before on the Timeless Luxury Ludwig LE , and I similarly delighted in considering it to be as at that point. The cleanest white believable, it has an ideal shine finish and porcelain-like appearance. Instead of a sharp advance down at the edge of the sub-dial, there is a milder sweep, addressing a thicker, gooey covering. The leaf hands, in any case, are a takeoff for Nomos, and a welcome one at that.
The one of a kind flicker of warmth blued hands Soft shapes
The exquisite bends of tenderly bowing leaf structures change the character of the watch. Milder and more humanistic than Nomos’ standard stick hands, the leaves are the ideal equilibrium of expanded adornment and limitation. They keep up that quintessential Nomos effortlessness, while plainly alluding to a more seasoned time of watchmaking. While utilized for a reason here, I’d love to see Nomos use these, or comparable hands, on more future models. The lone detail that somewhat deceives the gently classical stylish of the 175 LE is the consideration of “Neomatik” beneath the Nomos logo. Giving the setting of the watch, I figure they might have left that out.
In differentiation to the brilliant polish white, the center Neomatik 39 highlights a steely, silver-dim dial with a glossy silk finish. The Roman numerals and lines are the equivalent, however seem a touch bolder, likely in view of the diverse printing surface. In a change from both the 175 LE and exemplary Ludwigs, the railroad list has been supplanted with Arabic moment numerals at timespans and little runs in the middle. This promptly makes a striking contrast as the dial feels more open and scanty. Moreover the utilization of additional numerals, and Arabic at that, carries a more specialized feel to the dial.
Similarly, the sub-dial at six has been stepped down with a hard edge and highlights roundabout graining inside for a metallic sheen. Arabic numerals have been added here like clockwork, exchanging with dark lines, comparatively adding an expanded degree of detail. Combined with heat-blued stick hands, the Neomatik 39 feels like a combination between the exemplary Ludwig and the more absolutely Bauhaus-styled Tangente.
Similar, yet surprisingly unique, the two watches have a particular appeal. The 175 LE is more amicable, but fancier, and simpler to-process while the center model, with its exact numerals and dim surface, is a greater amount of what I anticipate from a Nomos. The previous feels like an extraordinary event watch, and the last a regular work watch. It’s quite striking how only a few of little subtleties can make such a difference.
The DUW 3001s discovered within the Neomatik Ludwigs is essential for Nomos’ most up to date age of in-house programmed types. German-made and including 27-gems, hacking, hand twisting, as long as 43 hours of force save, and a recurrence of 21,600bph, the most striking component of this development is its size. Coming in at 3.2mm, it’s one of the more slender automatics you’ll discover there, absolutely at the value point. Noticeable through the presentation case backs on the two watches, the DUW 3001 is completely finished with striping, perlage blue screws, and gold-tone type.
Both Ludwigs are mounted to 19mm dark shell cordovan ties with rembordé edges, or, in other words rolled, instead of cut and painted. While pleasantly executed, I for one would have favored ties with a marginally more noteworthy shape as these felt somewhat wide in comparison to the delicate case. Furthermore, not to go on an over the top lash making bluster, however making a rembordé cordovan tie is somewhat odd, particularly since these seem to include the posterior of cordovan as coating. This would basically involve parting the cordovan from its back, dispersing the edges, reapplying the back, and rolling the edges under it for the rembordé look. Given that shell cordovan is a particularly momentous calfskin, known for its solidarity in any event, when slim, this feels like a superfluous measure of adjusting of it, which I envision could really bring down its drawn out toughness. Alright, bluster over.
While I generally feel a little questionable when I see a Nomos model get bigger, at 38.6mm the Ludwig Neomatik 39s are a still in moderately safe area. At this size, they presently don’t feel like moderate dress watches, rather looks for ordinary and easygoing wear, at any rate on my 7” wrist. Slender bezels make for “all dial” cases that, at this size, start to feel a touch level and wide. They aren’t excessively far gone, similar to the Tangente Sport , however they are starting to hit the edge. With no guarantees, when I became accustomed to their more proper features, I very delighted in wearing the Ludwigs.
Being used to wearing instrument jumpers and chronographs now, lashing something rich, wispy meager, yet intentional and practical to my wrist was reviving. As I’ve said in past Nomos surveys, regarding my way of life, Nomos’ are likely the best match. Furthermore, models proposed for everyday wear are still better. As a watch to wear on strolls around NYC, at my work area, and an intermittent open air bar (let’s not fail to remember, this was written in 2020), the scale and mentality of the Ludwig Neomatik 39 suits the circumstance. It’s never lumbering, it’s simple to peruse (except if in obscurity), and on the center model specifically with its dim dial and little numerals, has a stylish that could be depicted as metropolitan. I likewise need to say that having sported Tangentes and comparatively styled watches, I favor the gentler lines of the Ludwig on the wrist.
The restricted version model feels somewhat more debauched and intricate, regardless of whether there is at last less occurring on the dial. It gets light in more emotional manners, between the bigger hands and polish like surface, and the super clear white dial hops off the wrist. While still profoundly engaging, it’s not as fit to me, or maybe I to it, as the center model. All things considered, with such restricted amounts, this is even more a collector’s piece than one’s following everyday watch.
While I’m not certain if the Ludwig will at any point be on the highest point of my Nomos shopping list, the additional time I go through with the line, the more I get it. It’s an unpretentious and modern watch, maybe much more so than the famous Tangente. It blends the complex and saw as-formal designs of Roman numerals with a stripped-down, Bauhaus-propelled stylish. The two thoughts don’t appear to merge, yet the Ludwig is an astoundingly adjusted watch. The one component they are feeling the loss of that I discover I most appreciate from Nomos is a dash of fun loving nature, and maybe that’s what holds me back.
With the Ludwig Neomatik 39 I do think Nomos has discovered an intriguing combination of size and plan. The modernized design (no railroad list) changes the watch in a genuinely critical way. A route that in spite of giving it a more present day, if somber, look and feel, made it more in accordance with my preferences. The size, however skirting on enormous, still absolutely works, and is saved by the surprisingly meager profile.
With a sticker price of $3,700, the Ludwig Neomatik 39 is a long way from reasonable, yet likewise with most Nomos watches in the $2 – $4k territory, actually feels like a decent worth. It is a German-made, and Gashütte at that, watch with a slight in-house programmed, that isn’t simply a clone of a Swiss development. Allly, these are exceptionally fine watches, and notwithstanding a previous where Nomos watches were all the more forcefully valued, the cost would be a touch simpler to swallow. There likewise isn’t some other brand doing what Nomos does, at this cost or some other, for that matter.
The 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte LE is then a fairly amazing activity in winding the Ludwig back to another period. In spite of the fact that the progressions are unpretentious, they are compelling and give the LE a really unique feel. As said previously, the leaf hands are flawless and make me wish Nomos could locate a cutting edge model to put them, or something also voluptuous and suggestive, on full time. For individuals who have been sitting tight for something genuinely old style from Nomos, this is likely just about as close as they’ll get. Indeed, that is in the event that they were adequately fortunate to snatch one. Nomos