Vintage military watches have an immense aficionado base inside the more extensive gatherer community, and it’s nothing unexpected that there are various brands available today that pull motivation from these cherished, deliberate watches. Obviously, being genuine vintage pieces, a considerable lot of these exemplary mil-spec device watches are presently over 50 years old. Subsequently, they aren’t as impenetrable as they used to be, so it bodes well for contemporary brands to create watches that follow that plan language, yet then execute them to an advanced norm. The furthest down the line brand to do that is Serica with their W.W.W. (for Wrist. Watch. Waterproof) “WMB” Edition, a community project between the people behind the French watch blog Les Rhabilleurs and The WM Brown Project , the last established by Matthew Hranek (who went along with us on the digital broadcast here to talk about his book, A Man & His Watch ).
On a surface level, the four watches making up this underlying W.W.W. “WMB” Edition summon the popular “Dirty Dozen” watches created around the time World War. They’re not immediate duplicates, however a trace of the flavor is surely there, and the outcome, to my eye in any case, is very decent. All things considered, these watches play in a packed space, so the inquiry remains: would they say they are deserving of thought? Let’s investigate.
(Editor’s note: the watches appeared here are models, and the last creation models will highlight a modest bunch of changes that I will note below.)
Review: Serica W.W.W. “WMB” Edition
Case Stainless steel Movement ETA 2801-2 or the same Sellita SW210-1 Dial Lacquer white or dark Lume Vintage Super-LumiNova Lens Domed mineral Strap 2X – Leather and nylon one-piece Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 37.7mm x 46.5mm Thickness 11.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $540
Measuring around 37.7mm wide with a drag to-haul length of about 46.5mm, these watches hit somewhat of an individual sweet spot for me and what I like size-wise with regards to these kinds of vintage-roused pieces. They wear generally like 38mm watches, however with a touch more presence because of the more rough case and more extensive set 20mm carries. The thicker bezel tempers the dial a piece, yet additionally serves to keep this one looking more energetic.
The treated steel case includes a satisfying blend of completions. The hauls are vertically brushed, just like the case sides and the highest point of the bezel. The bezel at that point includes a mirror-cleaned incline, which helps hold the case back from looking excessively quieted. Idealists may contend this is pointless bling, yet this isn’t a purist’s watch. Truth be told, I may even incline toward somewhat really cleaning, especially along the case sides for extra contrast.
The huge, unsigned crown is ideal for hand-winding — something worth being thankful for on the grounds that this is a hand-cranker controlled by either an ETA 2801-2 or the same Sellita SW210-1. The crown here screws down, and on the model it doesn’t decouple (a major no-no in my book), however it will on the creation model.
Up top is a domed mineral gem that misshapes the dial at a point, which adds to the vintage vibe of the watch. Some don’t like this, and others welcome it. I fall in the last camp. For my cash, notwithstanding, I’d have gone with an acrylic precious stone. Indeed, it scratches simpler, however those scratches are moderately simple to buff out, and the glow offered by an old fashioned non-cyclic can’t be beat. In any case, this isn’t actually a staying point, simply an individual preference.
The full assortment.
The fundamental plan is the equivalent across each of the four models: a railroad minutes track outlining a 1-12-hour track, which thusly outlines an extra 13-24-hour track. There’s vintage-conditioned Super-LumiNova at each 5-minute stretch on the railroad track, and a “Swiss Made” stamp underneath the “6” marker. What’s more, no doubt, there’s no logo here, by the same token. This arrangement is delivered in two tones — lacquered high contrast — and with two hand-sets — alpha and wide arrow.
Before accepting the watches, I was certain my #1 arrangement would be the white dial with alpha hands. I couldn’t have been all the more off-base. Ends up, the one for me is the complete inverse — dark dial with wide bolt hands. While I appreciate the appearance of the white dial, the lavishness of the lacquered dark dial combined with the wide, brushed wide bolt hands brings about a dynamic and readable watch on the wrist. While we’re on the hands, I need to take note of that the cleaned seconds hand appeared here across each of the four watches with be brushed on the last creation model.
One issue I have with these examples is the lume. It’s OK on the hands, yet truly frail on the dial. I addressed the Serica people who guaranteed me that this will be fixed on the last creation units. The dials will include a heavier, all the more even utilization of Super-LumiNova, as will the hands.
The watch wears truly well. It’s generally thin at 11.8mm thick, and it fits truly near the wrist. The dark dialed variation is particularly amusing to wear. The way the light plays with all the components — the shine dark dial, brushed hands, and multi-finish case — makes this a pleasant watch to take a gander at all through the day.
The calfskin one-piece tie here is one of the ties the comes with the watch; the other is a nylon mil-lash. The other tightened two-piece lashes exhibited in the photographs are from Joseph Bonnie (the group behind Serica and Les Rhabilleurs own JB), yet they don’t come standard with the watch. Really awful, on the grounds that they look great, and I’d recommend picking a couple to go with the watch. All things considered, these is a strong first excursion from Serica. Are there issues with the models I had available? Indeed, however in the event that these issues are tended to as was demonstrated to me, these will be strong watches certainly deserving of thought. Obviously, there’s the subject of cost. At $540, I think these are very much situated on the lookout, with the immediate competition being the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical and, more top of psyche, the Vaer “Dirty Dozen” we expounded on here . However, notwithstanding the on a superficial level likenesses between these watches, the devil’s in the subtleties, and they each offer something else in their own way.
Pre-orders are being taken now, with conveyance of the initial 500 pieces expected around September 2019. Serica