A few watches oppose simple order. Regularly you’ll see a watch or give one a shot and quickly remember it as a jumper, or a dress watch, or a chronograph. However, I’ve claimed the Grand Seiko SBGH271 for longer than a year, I still don’t truly know how to contextualize it with different watches in my assortment. Is it a games watch? It has a screw down crown, a wristband, and 100 meters of water obstruction. However, of course, it wears less than its generally unobtrusive 40mm breadth, is overwhelmed by profoundly cleaned slopes, and is complemented with gold tone hour markers and hands. I’ve figured out throughout my experience with the watch that the most lovely wearing experience is with a calm earthy colored crocodile tie. Not by and large the makings of an experience watch. The SBGH271, in the same way as other current Grand Seikos, isn’t completely any a certain something, aside from an illustration of the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship.
Also known as the “Rikka,” the SBGH271 is important for Grand Seiko’s assortment of watches that are roused by the four seasons. The Rikka can be considered as one portion of a couple with the SBGH273, addressing fall. Both have tempered steel cases and are fueled by Grand Seiko’s 9S85 high recurrence development, while the colder time of year and spring watches in this little assortment are projected in titanium and run on a Spring Drive development, type 9R65. All depend on the exemplary 62GS case shape, and the Zaratsu cleaning that Grand Seiko is appropriately acclaimed for is amazing to notice, however let’s not child ourselves here: this watch is about the dial.
In a profound finished green with gold tone lists and dauphine hands that resemble little ice picks, the Rikka’s dial is totally, unequivocally, the superstar. My experience buying it is a story ancient: stroll into the AD not entirely certain of precisely what I’m after, see the green dial, and, I swear, my charge card just built up a psyche of its own.
With an entire year of possession added to my repertoire, it seemed like a decent an ideal opportunity to venture back and assess the Rikka since the special first night time frame is unquestionably finished, and I’ve got an opportunity to encounter the watch in a wide range of wearing conditions and situations. Let’s hop in.
Owner’s Review: The Grand Seiko SBGH271
Case Stainless Steel Movement 9S85 Dial Green Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless Steel Bracelet Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40 x 47mm Thickness 13.3mm Lug Width 21mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $6300
Even however the dial is the make it or break it highlight of the watch, I need to begin with the case, since I feel like on some Grand Seiko references with fascinating finished dials, the case is just about a reconsideration when it truly shouldn’t be. While I think most purchasers of the Rikka or other Grand Seikos with also imaginative dials are surely attracted by the surprising, nature roused plans, the case is the thing that you truly experience everyday as you wear the thing, and it significantly affects your happiness regarding the watch all through your experience with it, especially whenever fit is an issue.
The SBGH271’s case is designed according to the 62GS case shape presented by Grand Seiko in the last part of the 1960s, however it isn’t a one for one amusement. Like other early Grand Seikos, the 62GS is a basic reference in their “Grammar of Design” reasoning, which expressed that cases ought to be loaded up with level surfaces to mirror however much light as could be expected, and oppose customary round shapes. The first 62GS (which was the principal watch from Grand Seiko to include a completely programmed development) has comparable math to the Rikka, yet with more unobtrusive extents. The advanced SBGH271 and its kin in the seasons assortment have a more strong and more extensive casing, which is the thing that you’d anticipate from a cutting edge reevaluation of something exemplary. The DNA of the first plan is still a lot of present, in any case, especially in the manner in which the case lines bend and twist with such entirely level sides. Not at all like the 57GS and 44GS case shapes, which are prominently more rakish and extreme, the 62GS (which came just after the 57 and 44 in arrangement) streams all the more naturally while holding the sensational level cleaned sides. There’s something marginally more fragile about the 62GS, even in this cutting edge reevaluation, that I find especially appealing.
The other significant plan normal for the SBGH271 as it identifies with the case is the totally open, bezel free case development. The gem is adjoined by the midcase straightforwardly, which gives the entire bundle an extremely incorporated and strong feel. You may imagine that with an open plan this way, you’d end up with a “Nomos effect” of the watch feeling greater than it really is because of a “all dial” plan, yet I would say the inverse is by all accounts valid. This watch feels compact to me, in huge part on account of the barrell like state of the case.
Ultimately, any Grand Seiko is a grandstand for the decidedly mind blowing Zaratsu cleaning, and the Rikka doesn’t disillusion in such manner. The calculation of the cleaned sides is complex, with double cleaned edges meeting at the hauls to frame a precious stone molded endpoint. The midcase is brushed and gives difference to the cleaned slopes, yet by and by this is infrequently found in day by day wear, so the watch presents as completely cleaned, and significantly so.
No matter how frequently I see a Grand Seiko with this style of Zaratsu cleaning, I’m interminably overwhelmed by it. The way that this degree of completing is so feasible is as yet one of the extraordinary accounts of current watchmaking, and I immovably trust it must be seen and worn to be completely understood.
The Rikka’s finished green dial is motivated by waving fields of grass, which is intended to review the Japanese summer. While I absolutely acknowledge Grand Seiko at their promise here, I must be straightforward: the actual dial doesn’t invoke recollections or sensations of summer for me, by and by. While it’s pleasant to truly interface with the backstory of a watch (and it’s decent when a watch has a backstory to tell) with the Rikka I’ve found that my delight in the watch, and the dial explicitly, isn’t attached to a specific idea or feeling I convey for the mid year months. Truly, I’m not so much as a major fanatic of summer. New Hampshire is truly sticky from June through August, and there are a ton of dark flys, and it’s just for the most part not my number one season. However, and this is the key yet , I love a truly first rate green dial.
Green is a bizarre dial tone, and despite the fact that I think the vast majority approve of green in principle, considering everything with regards to a watch, it’s simple to perceive any reason why it doesn’t sit very right for certain individuals. It’s not flexible, and it doesn’t have a similar capacity to fly under the radar as a blue or dark dial would. Include the gold accents and the blaze of the Zaratsu clean, and you have a watch in the SBGH271 that is quite out front in any circumstance you may wind up in, so you need to truly commit.
For me, the Rikka’s dial is unendingly fulfilling. The surface resembles minuscule waves getting across the dial’s surface evenly (on the blue SBGH273, the direction is flipped and the waves run vertically), and I appreciate the manner in which they look similar to an EKG readout. Secretly (I surmise not so secretly any longer) I allude to it is the “Joy Division dial,” for its similarity to the Unknown Pleasures collection cover , however with early English post-punk being probably as distant from conventional Japanese art as I might suspect you can get, it seems like that’s one of those peculiar associations that sits in my cerebrum and my mind alone.
Something that I adapted rapidly as a proprietor of the SBGH271 is the means by which the tone and character of the dial changes drastically in various lighting conditions. Inside, if light isn’t sparkling straightforwardly on the dial, the surface is completely lost, and the shading goes to a dull shade of green, in any event, verging on dark. Outside, when completely presented to light, every little edge is obvious with the unaided eye, and the green tone is far lighter and takes on a sparkling, emanating quality. It’s very fabulous and the oddity hasn’t worn off. I additionally like the possibility that by and large the dial doesn’t read as anything extremely uncommon at all – there’s some delight to be had in realizing that there’s more going on that a great many people, in the event that they notice the watch by any stretch of the imagination, will never see.
I figure the Rikka would be more effective without the date window at 3:00, as it would expand the effect of the dial without a break in balance. All things considered, and this is valid for all Grand Seiko date windows I’ve got the opportunity to take a gander at very close, they’ve made a pleasant showing on the execution. The casing is done to similar level as the wide range of various gold accents found on the dial, and the date wheel itself has a pleasant iced finish that is difficult to get without a loupe, yet it’s certainly there. It’s additionally, in all honesty, ideal to understand what the date is, so I can’t be excessively frantic toward the outcome here.
While it’s my arrangement that the hour markers and hands are gold plated, they have a similar effect as strong gold when seen through the sapphire glass, and complement the green dial consummately. There’s something about the green and gold combination that simply works – it’s a matching that numerous brands actualize on a portion of their unique watches, from Rolex to Bravur and an entire host of others.
As normal with Grand Seiko, it’s worth putting a couple of bucks in a respectable loupe so that, when the mind-set strikes you, you can look at the better subtleties of the dial that are difficult to see without the guide of amplification. On the SBGH271, the faceted hour markers have outlandishly fine edges running down them on the top feature. You may ask yourself, “Why does Grand Seiko bother?” I’m not certain about the appropriate response, past a commitment to creating the most extravagant item they can, yet it’s an awesome minimal Easter egg, and delineates the crazy scrupulousness with respect to the Grand Seiko plan team.
I’m an immense aficionado of the Rikka dial however I need to concede that after my underlying captivation by it at the approved vendor, for a while subsequent to bringing it home I considered what, precisely, I’d found myself mixed up with, committing a particularly sizable lump of my watch financial plan to a watch with a dial that, while unbiasedly delightful, isn’t precisely adaptable. Eventually for me, by the day’s end feel win out, and I cheerfully power conflict pretty much every time I wear the thing, yet in the event that you’re the kind of individual that coordinates his belt to his socks no matter what, this one’s most likely not for you.
The SBGH271 runs on Caliber 9S85, a Hi-Beat development running at 36,000 vph. Throughout the course of the time I’ve possessed the watch, the 9S85 has performed perfectly. I’m not regularly one to keep definite records of how precise my watches are running at some random time, however when I do end up monitoring the 9S85 when being used, it’s consistently inside spec, which on this type is +8 to – 1 seconds for each day.
Like the remainder of the watch, the development is very much completed, and surely worth investigating the presentation caseback, yet it’s a little deplorable that Grand Seiko has decided to part of the way dark our perspective on the development with the brand’s logo carved into the glass. My inclination here would have been to have a strong caseback fit for communicating whatever sort of marking Grand Seiko wanted onto clear hardened steel. While the type is pleasant looking, we’re not discussing haute horlogerie level completing here, and the logo makes a pointless interruption. All things considered, as a proprietor of the watch, it’s not something I commit a lot of thought to by any means, and it (clearly) didn’t sway my choice to buy it, and I don’t think it’s an issue that should ascend to the degree of major issue in anyone’s purchasing decision.
One of the thumps on Grand Seiko is that while their cases, dials, and developments are totally made to apparently demanding guidelines and their quality is by and large outstanding, their arm bands leave a little to be wanted, and can even allow these watches to down a piece. Dissimilar to the to some degree insignificant nature of the logo scratching on the caseback, a watch’s wristband goes straightforwardly to wearability, and it totally can become an authentic major issue for a few, especially if the case isn’t appropriate to lashes. I have an adoration disdain relationship with the wristband of the SBGH271, yet luckily have figured out over the long haul that the watch looks out of the blue great on leather.
The arm band itself is in reality very much made and is a decent stylish counterpart for the case, yet it loses focuses on the fasten, which is vitally missing miniature change capacity completely. I’ve experienced the to some degree disappointing cycle of adding and eliminating full connections and half connections from one or the flip side of the wristband in each possible combination, and just can’t land on a fit that truly feels secured. While my inclination would obviously be for some kind of ready snappy change instrument like how Tudor helps the Pelagos or Rolex for the Submariner, even a Speedmaster-style change requiring the utilization of an apparatus would help get the Rikka estimated ideal (for me) without successive and awkward connection adjustments.
Luckily, I’ve found that the SBGH271 wears truly well on calfskin, and I as often as possible wear mine on an earthy colored crocodile tie that I feel is an incredible complement to the green dial with its gold accents. This gives the watch a lot dressier vibe that I think it’s appropriate for, and underlines the double idea of the Rikka and different watches in the seasons assortment. With a case tallness of 12.9mm (barring the precious stone), this watch isn’t precisely thin, but since of the case development it doesn’t feel almost as stout to me as it would show up on paper. What’s more, with the utilization of a lash eliminating a large part of the watch’s weight, it wears effectively and feels like a good old “everyday” easygoing watch that’s simply a smidgen extravagant, however in an unassuming, under the radar way.
For a 40mm watch, the Rikka wears comfortably on a tie, and on my wrist has no drag shade to talk about. It sits near the wrist, further covering up it’s thickness, and keeping in mind that I wouldn’t say it’s the sort of watch you fail to remember you have on, neither does it impede your everyday assignments. It’s positively never been unintentionally pummeled into an entryway jam, which is beyond what I can say for a large number of the watches currently sitting in my watch box.
Something I’ll note here is that the haul width is the fairly uncommon 21mm across, which common affects how the watch wears. The more extensive hauls normally imply that the watch has a more extensive engraving on the wrist. It’s just a single millimeter, so it’s an unpretentious impact, however you unquestionably notice that the carries don’t bend into the watch’s focus very however much they would something else. This look may be interesting to a few and repellent to other people, however for me, as a fairly bigger wristed individual, it’s an or more, and causes everything to feel somewhat more relative, in the event that not exactly as refined.
And there’s the matter of fitting lashes. Sadly there only aren’t as numerous 21mm ties out there to browse, and I ended up having three or four uniquely crafted by a confided in asset. You can surely explore different avenues regarding 22mm lashes, however prior to doing so I’ll give a little admonition that the sharp edges of the SBGH21’s hauls decidedly obliterated the sewing on one of my own more extensive ties. A wide lash packed into a tight drag length is frequently never the equivalent after the ordeal.
Lastly, green is an intense dial tone to appropriately match with cowhide. Earthy colored will consistently work, and dark for the most part will. I’ve explored different avenues regarding green calfskin to changing levels of achievement, and I even have a maroon lash with a decent surface to it that is a pleasant combination. Be that as it may, the Rikka isn’t, as the children say, a tie beast. I’m genuinely compulsive about continually exchanging ties and attempting new looks, however with the SBGH271 I’ve surrender to the possibility that earthy colored is ideal, and have been staying with that, yet your mileage, as usual, may vary.
When I purchased the SBGH271, I had considerations that it may become the all tricky “daily wearer,” the watch that I go after again and again, dismissing the entirety of the others. As an authority, this is something of an unrealistic fantasy, and the Rikka is in reality a long way from my most worn watch. All things considered, I’m no less glad to possess it, as each time I do choose to put it on, it seems like something remarkable and uncommon. That, as far as I might be concerned, is the force of Grand Seiko. They simply have this quality to them that causes you to value the entirety of the little subtleties and difficult work that went into the plan and production of the watch on your wrist. Some of them may be somewhat difficult to arrange in a closet, however I think it’s OK to value these things simply as configuration objects, and less as frill. To put it plainly, it’s only ideal to possess a perfectly made thing that gives you some delight when you see it.