Despite the fact that Grand Seiko is generally the home for the Japanese firm’s most respected horological abuses, Seiko’s Presage range has — since 2016 when it officially went global — filled in as a go-to platform for increasingly top of the line features and procedures, the vast majority of which are offered to shoppers at a relatively reasonable cost point. Presently, Presage is taking a page from Grand Seiko’s playbook and offering their latest with a Spring Drive caliber, a development that isn’t exclusively relegated to Grand Seiko, but one that is unquestionably best associated with it (Spring Drive has also been utilized in Credor watches and most as of late in Seiko’s Prospex LX range).
So, what do we have here? Refs. SNR037 and SNR039 are two classically styled, enamel-dial pieces that, as far as feel go, are similar as past Presage releases. That is to say, they’re absolutely exquisite, and completed to a certain extent that you just don’t see at the value point. The addition of the Spring Drive development here takes it to an entirely different level.
Seiko Presage Enamel Dial Spring Drive Refs. SNR037 and SNR039
- Case Material: Stainless steel with Seiko’s super-hard coating
- Dial: Enamel SNR037 (white) and SNR039 (black)
- Dimensions: 40mm wide, 13.1mm thick
- Crystal: Dual-bended sapphire crystal with super-clear coating
- Water Resistance: 10 bar
- Movement: Spring Drive Caliber 5R65 with 72 hours of force reserve
- Strap/bracelet: Shell Cordovan with deployant
- Price: €4,650
- Expected Release: October 2019
Let’s start with the dials. These enamel beauties are delivered by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokosawa , who has been working with enamel since 1971. He’s sharpened his abilities and strategy throughout what is presently nearly half-a-century, and in that time he’s created measures that allow him to deliver dials in larger quantities than what was possible before, which allows Seiko to keep costs reasonable. Having an exceptionally trained eye here is, obviously, absolutely critical. Each dial should have the correct structure and even application to pass the QC cycle, and Yokosawa guarantees that to be the case despite the fact that the dials are created in batches.
The dial configuration is roused by crafted by Japanese industrial planner Riki Watanabe, who had a longstanding relationship with Seiko until his death in 2013. The Presage team worked intimately with Watanabe’s colleague to create a dial that was especially in the soul of Watanabe’s tasteful, and that is generally apparent through the impactful utilization of the Didoni textual style, one of Watanabe’s favorites. I’m a fan, as well. It’s powerful and functional without sacrificing a solitary drop of elegance.
As far as the layout goes, there’s a 12-hour scale and a force save indicator directly off 8:00. Theres a shading matched date window at 3:00, and it impeccably integrates into the plan of the watch. This is a date complication done right.
The stainless steel case measures 40mm across, and it’s coated in Seiko’s super-hard coating. The dual-bended sapphire crystal features AR coating for maximum legibility, and a transparent case back offers a view at the beautiful caliber inside.
Powering the watch is the Spring Drive 5R65 caliber, which can be found in different references, for example, the Golden Tuna Marinemaster as well as a portion of the pieces in the Prospex LX range disclosed earlier this year. To lay it out plainly, Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state of the art caliber that lacks the weaknesses innate to both of these development types. The outcome is a watch with quartz-like accuracy of give or take 1 second a day, combined with the limitless energy potential of a mechanical watch fueled by a mainspring. Because there is no traditional escapement here, but instead a constantly turning float wheel, the second hand has a smooth breadth — a trademark of Spring Drive. The force save is 72 hours.
Both watches will be available October, 2019 in select Seiko boutiques and retail stores around the world. The estimated retail cost in Euros is €4,650, so expect USD evaluating to be around that figure as well. Seiko