To commend 25 years of their admired 9F quartz development, Grand Seiko has quite recently reported three new attractive GMT models. Grand Seiko has adjusted the development for double cross zones, and they’ve named it the 9F86. The 9F86 is exact to inside +10/ – 10 seconds out of each year, however Grand Seiko is likewise presenting a restricted version of 800 pieces (SBGN001) that will remain inside +5/ – 5 seconds of the year. The 9F86 permits free hour hand change, making these three new models “true GMTs.”
These 39-millimeter watches are just possibly thicker than their standard three-hand partners, which took no modest quantity of designing on Grand Seiko’s part. They’ve overhauled the primary plate, the stuff train, and the association between the four hands and their individual, concentric tomahawks. Therefore, the case is just 12.1 millimeters thick. Impressive.
The fixed 24-hour chamfered bezel is suggestive of Rolex’s celebrated Explorer II GMT, yet takes a gander at home, even recognizable, on the Grand Seiko. AM/PM sign is found on the two-tone rehaut, which is refreshingly inconspicuous compared to numerous GMT’s that exaggerate the case. While there’s no preventing the energetic looks from getting these GMTs, they are quite smooth, and with 100-meters of water obstruction, we may need to name them Dressy Tool Watches, or DTWs . Ilya and I had initially precluded quartz developments in our DTW depiction, however his new procurement of a 9F prepared three-hander ref. SBGX061 has the two of us reevaluating that models.
Aside from the more finely tuned development, the restricted version additionally sports a honey bee colorway and the dial is delivered in a metallic dull charcoal with a finished example comprising of unpredictably orchestrated quartz images. Those acquainted with Grand Seiko’s other designed dials, for example, the white-dialed SBGT241G , will perceive the look.
Typical of Seiko’s discharges, there are two norm, non-restricted models to accompany the restricted release. These are the dark dialed SBGN003 and the blue-dialed SBGN005, both attractive and positively less lively than the honey bee adaptation (yellow on a watch quite often says “sporty”).
The standard models have red GMT hands, the restricted release a yellow one, all of which fly off the dial without looking incoherent. On each of the three forms that hand stretches out right to the edge of the dial for remarkable intelligibility against the 24-hour bezel. This long GMT hand may not show up appallingly huge from the outset, however as a proprietor of GMTs with hands that don’t broaden that far, I can validate the additional clearness of time-telling on these Grand Seikos. Further, to get the GMT hand that nearby required accuracy designing of the hand’s association with the development, as any slop could, under stun, cause an impact. In the event that, similar to me, you find tight resistances attractive, you’ll additionally take joy watching that hand make its rounds.
If you’ve never seen the Seiko 9F in real life, it very well might be difficult to value how fantastic it is. Generally imperative to the unaided eye, an auto-changing framework forestalls the seconds hand from shivering after each tick. The 9F’s seconds hand stops like an Olympic tumbler sticking their descent versus the other 99.9% of gymnasts who make a little stride upon landing—and we realize who returns home with the gold. That fresh spasm is enrapturing, and I spent in excess of a couple of moments watching Ilya’s 9F Quartz do its thing as of late. Similarly fulfilling, however just happening once every day, the date changes quickly at 12 PM, taking out the unusual inconvenient time float of most mechanical date discs.
To further your grip of the 9F86’s excellent nature, note that Seiko develops its own quartz gems and—like wine or tobacco—pre-ages them until they’re as exact as could really be expected. This all sounds more like crafted by an advanced rancher than a watchmaker.
Though I’ve not had these watches close by at this point, I can address the high exactness of Grand Seiko’s case work, which joins the zaratsu cleaning method that returns to antiquated Samurai blade making. The plan is both recognizable and unto itself, prior astonishments and little tricks for smooth points, unpretentious enunciations, and heavenly design. Wondering over Ilya’s 9F on a new web recording , we noticed that Grand Seiko figures out how to outshine Rolex’s case work while at the same time dodging the Swiss brand’s bling or fabulousness. These cases are downplayed show-stoppers, and the GMT gives off an impression of being no exemption.
Similarly noteworthy are the arm bands that come with Grand Seikos. Resistances between the bracelet’s numerous pieces are super close (read: attractive), making this arm band truly comfy and completely liberated from slop. The marked fasten is attractive, secure, and simple to convey. The associations at the hauls and around the case are among the most amazing aspect the best.
The blue and dark adaptations (SBG005 and 003 separately) will sell for $3,200 and the extraordinary version is $300 more at $3,500. Grand Seiko