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Hands-On: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection (Refs. SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005, and SBGK006)

Hands-On: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection (Refs. SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005, and SBGK006)


The Elegance Collection is, as the name proposes, home to Grand Seiko’s dressier watches. You won’t discover one of Grand Seiko’s huge chronos or jumpers here. All things being equal, the watches making up the Elegance Collection fall on the dressier side of things — the dials are by and large cleaner and more work of art, the lone significant complications you’ll find here are a date and GMT capacity, and the greater part of the watches share a similar essential case plan that, to my eye, looks less serious than some of Grand Seiko’s different cases and, subsequently, I believe are all the more generally tasteful. By and by, I’m a major enthusiast of the Elegance Collection, and the Ref. SBGM221 is one of my number one watches in my assortment and, by and large talking, in Seiko’s index.  

A few weeks back, I expounded on Grand Seiko’s declaration of another type and with it four new looks for their Elegance Collection. Yet, the development is simply essential for the story. This delivery likewise acquainted another case plan with the Elegance Collection.

I find that to genuinely value a Grand Seiko watch (and less significantly any watch, truly), one necessities to see and deal with it in the metal. Most Grand Seiko downers are just acquainted with the brand and its watches from a far distance, and I’ve known something reasonable of converts who “got it” exclusively in the wake of having the opportunity to give one a shot. I as of late had the chance to go involved with the new assortment and I was not baffled. Face to face, the watches are just as pleasant as I suspected they’d be, and the situation, dial, and hands are done to Grand Seiko’s most elevated standard.

There are four references in this delivery:  

SBGK002 (18k rose gold case with a red Urushi polish dial got done with a Mt. Iwate pattern)  SBGK004 (18k rose gold case with a dark Urushi polish dial)  SBGK005 (tempered steel case with a blue dial got done with a Mt. Iwate design and applied markers) SBGK006 (18kt yellow gold case with a white dial and gold applied markers) $7400

Hands-On: Grand Seiko Elegance Collection (Refs. SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005, and SBGK006)

Case Stainless steel, 18kt rose gold, 18kt yellow gold Movement 9S64 Dial Various Lume n/a Lens Domed sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 3 bar Dimensions 39mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 19mm Crown Push/pull Warranty yes Price $7400

Let’s start with the development fueling this new reach. The 9S63 is Grand Seiko’s most up to date manual-twisting type in eight years, however it isn’t another age of development from Grand Seiko; rather, it expands on the grounded engineering of the 9S64, which is a reliable Grand Seiko type. It includes a little seconds complication at 9 o’clock and a force hold marker at 3 (together, the even situating of these two capacities   makes a satisfying equilibrium on the dial). The development brags 72 hours power save on a full wind, and the exactness is appraised to +5/ – 3 seconds every day. Moreover, it has 33 gems and a beat pace of 28,800 vph.

What I truly like about these watches is the manner in which the new case augments the slenderness of the development. In profile, the mid-case is very slight, and on the wrist the watches wear considerably more slender than their measurements suggest. As far as completing is concerned, it’s Grand Seiko at its best. The cleaning is great, the brushing is mind boggling, and the focuses where the two meet is without deficiency. This is valid across each of the four models.

Urushi is an old procedure, and instead of endeavoring to clarify it myself, I’ll offer this connection for a breakdown of how it’s done and its history. Ref. SBGK002 highlights a red Urushi polish dial got done with the unobtrusive Mt. Iwate design that we’ve seen in select Grand Seiko references, and Ref. SBGK004 has a one of a kind dark Urushi veneer dial. These two dials are likewise wrapped up utilizing the Maki-e enamel procedure, which includes utilizing gold or silver powder as embellishment. It’s utilized here for the numbers and markers. Note the accuracy in these full scale shots — it’s unadulterated dominance, and Grand Seiko utilizes simply the best craftspeople to get this done.

Then there’s Ref. SBGK006, which includes a more straightforward white dial with brilliant hands and applied markers. Yet, my top choice of the four is Ref. SBGK005. The dial here isn’t lacquered, yet it is done in the very powerful example that is intended to imitate the surface of Mt. Iwate. I can’t exaggerate how extraordinary this one looks — the manner in which the dial gets the light raises the piece higher than ever.

Refs. SBGK002, SBGK004, and SBGK005 are restricted releases (150, 150, and 1,500 units, separately), and Ref. SBGK005 is an overall delivery model.

I’ve read and heard complaints and concerns with respect to Grand Seiko’s upmarket push, an investigation that, as far as I might be concerned, appears to be a touch unwarranted. Indeed, the three versions here in rose and yellow gold are very costly ($29,000 for both Urushi dials and $19,000 for the customary dial), yet the hardened steel release is $7,400. That’s still a great deal of cash, yet it feels fittingly estimated comparative with the remainder of the Elegance Collection given the genuinely unique execution of the dial. By and large, nonetheless, Grand Seiko pieces actually run the extent value shrewd, similar as the manner in which many mainline Seiko ranges do, and I don’t anticipate that that should change.   I do, notwithstanding, expect more gem pieces like this later on, and those will be on the pricier side of things, particularly if they’re delivered in valuable metals.  But as long as Seiko keeps on contribution tempered steel models, I can be generally sure that Grand Seiko watches won’t become unobtanium.

In my book, this new assortment is an unmistakable victor, and I’m eager to see it develop with new references. Piggybacking off of what I composed above, I’d certainly love to see really being finished with hardened steel, notwithstanding, in light of the fact that valuable metals can be restricting for some regarding estimating and in any event, styling. Grand Seiko